The journal
Field notes from Morocco.
Walked, vetted, written by hand — by Asmoon, Amghar & Izem.
Chapter one
Best time to visit Morocco.
A month-by-month read of Morocco's seasons — weather, crowds, festivals, the small things only locals notice. Pick a month, read the field notes.
Start here
The big picture, season by season.
Spring & autumn are the kindest. Summer is the souk-quiet, mountain-cool, coast-perfect choice. Winter is for snow on the Atlas and Sahara stargazing. Three Moroccos in one country — pick the one you came for.
The medina is empty in the best way. Marrakech sits at 8–19°C, the Atlas wears snow, and the Sahara nights drop close to zero. Stay for the silence.
Read the winter guideAlmond bloom in the Atlas valleys, mild hiking weather, golden light. The country wakes up — book everything early.
Read the spring guideMarrakech hits 38°C; everyone moves to the Atlantic. Essaouira's wind, surf villages, late dinners on rooftops. Coast season.
Read the summer guideThe second peak: date harvest, mild light, the Atlas without snow. Many travellers' favourite window. Atlas hiking returns; cities ease back to comfortable.
Read the autumn guideChapter two
The traveller's guide.
Six dispatches we wish a friend had handed us before we landed for the first time. Read them as postcards — one a day, in the order that suits you. More on the way.
Language & local codes
The Darija primer.
A pocket of words and phrases that open doors: shukran, bsslama, l'aafak, hna, mzyan. The forty expressions that change how a shopkeeper sees you.
Female · Solo · Safe
Travelling Morocco as a woman.
The honest version — what to wear in the medina vs. the mountain village, hammam etiquette, when to say no, the riads we recommend by name, the small habits that buy quiet.
Cultural etiquette
The quiet rules — and the warmth behind them.
Three glasses of tea, the right hand for bread, when to take photos and when not to, what tipping really means, how to say "no thank you" without breaking a smile.
Food & Moroccan cuisine
The plates that tell the country's story.
Tangia, pastilla, harira, mechoui, msemen with amlou. What's worth queuing for, where the locals actually eat, and the kitchens we'd send our mothers to.
Luxury & quiet splurge
Where Morocco gets quiet.
Boutique riads with their own hammam, Atlas kasbah-hotels, private desert camps, vetted drivers, chef's-table dinners. The kind of luxury that doesn't show off — it just disappears.
Family · with kids · multi-gen
Morocco with the whole family.
The hammams that welcome children, the camel rides grandparents can do, the riads with safe courtyards for toddlers, the pace that works for three generations at once. The Morocco we'd take our own families on.